into the . . . .





Rod Blanks - Sage-All models; EPIC Fiberglass; CTS New Zealand for Carbon & F/Glass, Blue Halo F/Glass. Only the best will do!!

To the finished rod, the blank is the foundation that all other elements are built upon. So the foundation must be solid, high quality and dependable.  Each one is inspected prior to the start of construction for any obvious flaws or defects and returned if I feel they are not suitable for the requested build. Each rod is cast with the rated line weight prior to the final inspection, cleaning and shipment.

REEL SEATS: Joel Lemke Designs

Aluminum reel seats designed and made by Joel Lemke are the mainstay of what I use on these flyrods. I like to think of them as “Jewelry” adornments on the flyrods as they compliment the other elements to make the design complete. I use several sizes in mostly Bright Nickel plated, Dark Nickel plated, and a few anodized colors such as Champagne – a soft luxurious satin finish!

Reel seat sizes I use are:

LC1 for the standard line weights from 3wt through 6wt;

LC2 for ultra-lights 4wt and under;

LC5 for line weights from 7wt to 9wt;

LC25 for line weights from 10wt to 11wt.

Any flyrod needing line weights from 12wt and heavier should have either a solid anodized aluminum seat or a solid titanium seat.

The WOODS: American Hardwoods and Exotics

I utilize mostly American hardwoods such as Cherry, Maple, Black Walnut, Spalted Maple, Oak Burl, that has been stabilized with resins. There is the rare but beautiful Desert Ironwood along with some Box Elder Burl (Blond & Grey) and Black Ash Burl and others too numerous to list here. Finished wood inserts are generally done in high gloss but can also be done in a satin finish. This satin finish is especially beautiful when a heavily figured piece of wood is used and there is no gloss to take away from being able to see the figure of the wood.


Some “exotics” I have that greatly enhance the custom look of a fly rod are: Bubinga or African Rosewood, Honduran Cherry and Rosewood, Zebrawood, African Mahogany, Cocobolo, Brazilian Cherry and Indian Sheesham and Coolibah or Australian Eucalyptus to name a few.  PLEASE CALL OR WRITE for a complete listing of wood species. 

CORK GRIPS: Various Standard Styles & Shapes as well as custom

Each flyrod grip is made from FLOR grade cork, 14 pieces for a 7" grip, which is the TOP GRADE from the supplier in Portugal. The standard length is 7" but can be whatever the customer wishes. The STANDARD designs are Full Wells, for 7weights or above, Half Wells for 6 weights and under and for the Ultra-Lights grips, a length of 6-1/2" can be had to match the light-weight rod design especially in the 5'6" class group.

Another cork grip design I like to use is what is called a RiTZ grip designed by the Charles Ritz back in the day. It is a straight taper with curves only at the rear of the grip and then straight tapers upward to the front of the grip to 1" in diameter. I use this design mostly on my fiberglass builds.  OTHER CORK GRIP SHAPES WILL BE CONSIDERED IF THE CUSTOMER SO DESIRES.

GUIDES: Stripping, Snake Guides and tip tops

Only one style of snake guide will go on these fly rods, both graphite and the fiberglass - The SNAKE BRAND . . .!!

Either in Bright Nickel or Dark Nickel. The Stripping guides for the fresh water designs will be by FUJI in either the Polished Stainless frame with an Alconite ceramic insert or the Gunsmoke frame with a Silicon Carbide (SiC) ceramic insert.  


The Saltwater designs will have the FUJI polished stainless, or Titanium "K" style of stripping guide as well as the REC HD Titanium snake guides as standard on all saltwater builds.

The REC standard weight Titanium snake guides can be designed into your freshwater custom build as an add-on option if so desired. ADDs $20.00 to rod cost


AGATE Stripping guides

For fiberglass fly rod orders, Agate stripping guides can also be designed into your custom build as an add-on option if so desired. We will just have to determine the color scheme and get the color that blends the best. 

These stripping guides, beautifully handmade by Joe Arguello, are made as you would make jewelery. Each one of the Agate rings is hand bezeled which allows Joe to use some very fine rings to make the Ultra-lite Agate Strippers.

These are the finest Agate guides available - Beautiful as you can see!     ADDs $30.00 to rod cost

THREADWORK: Guide wraps, Decorative wraps

For the Graphite rods, the thread will be either Nylon or Polyester depending on what colors will be used. For the fiberglass rods it will the YLI #1oo SILK thread which is one of the finest silk threads made today. YLI is extremely high quality Japanese silk. 

The main thread colors on each guide will also have trim bands or “tippings” as some call them. There will be no extra charges for trim bands as they are standard for all rod builds  -  it just makes them look like they are finished!!

PROTECTIVE FINISH: Two Part Epoxy on all threadwork

The guide wraps, as well as other thread work when completed, will receive multiple coats of a two-part epoxy finish. This will protect the threads against wear and tear and keep the threads intact to do the job intended – keep the guides on the rod! A flawless finish adds timeless beauty to the completed rod.

PERSONALIZATION: Show them that it's YOURS . . . .Personally

Since I also make custom rod decals, the customer’s name or “whatever” he or she would like on the rod can be done as you can see in the photo galleries. Usually it is my logo, my name along with the rod specs and then the customer’s name.


There can be quite a few options here. . . .

ROD PROTECTION: Put it in a case to protect it...

Each completed Graphite or Fiberglass rod will be supplied with a hard, heavy denier canvas covered PVC case with internal cloth dividers. Or, you may want a 2' aluminum rod case with a black baked enamel finish and rod bag for the size rod you ordered. 

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Each insert is made one at a time from solid wood selected for color & figure. No color stains are ever applied prior to finishing - you get and see the real wood. On woods that need stabilizing such as spalted or burled pieces that are porous, some color can be added for a special effect. This will be rarely done as I prefer the natural look of the wood as it was created in Nature! The stabilizing process will add some variation to the piece, depending on its fiber makeup. Oily woods such as Cocobolo, any of the Rosewoods and others that are by Nature's design "oily", will not be stabilized.

ALL FLY RODS, REEL SEATS w/ WOOD INSERTS AND OTHER ITEMS LISTED ON THIS SITE ARE EACH HANDCRAFTED BY ME.   I do not resell any products that I don't create myself to ensure the highest quality control. The reel seat hardware for my fly rods is crafted by Joel Lemke. His "metal artwork" is like jewelry that adorns my fly rod creation.        Covington, VA